LOTUS SEVEN REGISTER

the web site for the

Seven made by Lotus between 1957 and 1973

Buying a Lotus Seven, an Historian's View.



Many of us drive a Seven because they remember Lotus, not only as a formidable team in Formula One but also for winning the World Championships six times in the 1960's and 1970's. Some owners are enthusiastic enough to re-badge their Caterhams with the Lotus emblem, whilst many hanker after actually owning one of the Sevens made by Lotus between 1957 and 1973. The point of this article is to assist those contemplating the purchase of one of the original cars.

When buying an old Lotus Seven some of the more important points to look out for are: (1.) Chassis Plate and Chassis Number, (2.) Frame Number, (3.) Road Registration Number and Logbook, (4.) Paperwork, (5.) Original Specification and lastly (6.) Condition. I say 'lastly' because whilst money can rectify the condition of a car, it cannot readily give a car either proper identity or history. When buying any car it is important to consider the difficulties that are maybe encountered when selling it at some time in the future; so if you have to make excuses for what you see at the outset, beware!

1. - CHASSIS PLATES: It goes without saying that a car, without a chassis plate, maybe a car without identity. The reasons for chassis plate removal are many. Some of the early racers took them off to display with their trophies, some went abroad to countries where new imported cars are heavily taxed and are now fitted to cars bearing little in common with what they are purporting to be and, sadly, others have been removed even less honestly. Replica chassis plates are readily available at most autojumbles but are easy to distinguish from the genuine articles as they are photographically produced as opposed to being stamped out; so their smooth feel gives them away.

2. - FRAME NUMBERS: Most Lotus Sevens have a frame number stamped directly onto the chassis. The frame makers [Progress Chassis, Unirads, Arch Motors, Grinston Engineering, etc.] used the number to identify the frame. As the frames were stored at the manufacturers and at Lotus and because of the way they were selected and transported there is no sequence for them in the records. So whilst a car with chassis number 1234 might have frame number 5678, chassis number 1235 might have frame number 4321.

Cross-referencing chassis number and frame number, can be a useful rough check as to the authenticity of a chassis, but is no guarantee that it has not either been re-newed or faked.

Variously frame numbers are to be found in front of the passenger seat on Series One and some early Series Two cars, on the top front member of the footbox on Series Two and Series Three cars and under the g.r.p. body by the seatbelt anchorages on a Series Four car. The numbers were stamped on using a punch and covered with paint and can be very difficult to read without cleaning first and the help of good light and a glass.

3. - REGISTRATION DOCUMENTS AND NUMBERS: Both the current [V5] and the earlier Green [V.E. 60] logbooks can tell a lot about a car. As well previous owner(s) details, there are also Date of Registration, Chassis No., Engine No., Cylinder Capacity or Rating and Colour. Obviously a car with a date of registration commensurate with the date the kit left the factory is preferable to one of the age-related numbers that the DVLA issue to 'barn finds' or cars being re-imported from abroad, etc. The other information serves to confirm details that you may find on the car.

People often tell me that their car was never registered because it was only ever used in competition. This, in fact, is fairly rare and without documentary evidence [e.g. race programmes or results] should not be readily believed.

Detail in the factory archives varies from car to car. Some records have chassis number, frame number, engine number and even Weber carburettor numbers, whilst others may only show chassis number and frame number. Anyway it is often possible to do some quick cross-referencing to determine whether a car is right and with this information decide whether or not to buy it.

4. - PAPERWORK: This is the 'icing on the cake', so to speak and I think makes the difference between a good car and a very good car. Paperwork can be bills, letters, articles, old tax disks and even old photographs and can be a valuable asset to a car.

5. - ORIGINAL SPECIFICATION: Typically no two Sevens, whether Lotus or Caterham are the same as they are all customised by and for their owners from day one. Over the years, with the need to have ever more power, some weird and wonderful drive trains have been fitted, even to the earliest cars. For example Mazda rotary, Ford 1600 crossflow or 1558 Lotus twin-cam engines and even automatic gearboxes and that is just in Series One cars, 1957 to 1960! Now I'm not saying that there's anything wrong with non-standard engines but, I think, in the long term, a standard car with an original type specification is definitely the best investment.

For those on the Internet, I have a web site at http://www.lotus7register.co.uk where I have attempted to detail the original specifications of all the Sevens made by Lotus 1957 to 1973. Those without 'the technology' [I believe that even our honourable editor has, after pressure, succumbed of late!] may send me a s.a.e. and I will mail the relevant parts of my web site to them.

There are also books that should be referred to before contemplating the purchase of an early Seven. The titles that I prefer are "Lotus Seven - A Collectors Guide" by Jeremy Coulter which I find is a very interesting read, "Lotus Seven - Restoration / Preparation / Maintenance" by Tony Weale which is an invaluable reference for any Lotus or pre-1992 Caterham owner and is particularly good in respect of the Series IV and one of the two reprints of the Lotus Seven Owner's Manual which any owner can ill afford to be without.

6. - CONDITION: Whilst this is all important when looking to buy any car, I believe that it is less so when considering the purchase of one made between 25 and 40 years ago. An old car will have flaws; some call them 'character', whereas a newer car should not. Obviously the mechanics should be sound, but the body may show signs of careful wear, called 'patina' in the antiques trade. Unfortunately not all cars are restored as lovingly as they might be and to some an original 'basket case' example is the only one to buy. Beware, this can work out very expensive when properly restored!

Happy hunting!

j.w.w. 20/7/1999

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